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Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. IVA
3. Safety First
4. Torquing of Bolts
5. Assembly Project Plan
6. Fitting The Pedal Box
7. Fitting The Brake Lines
8. Fitting The Fuel Lines
9. Fitting The Floor Pan
10. Fit The Rear Bulkhead Panel
11. Fit ECU Mounting Panel to the Chassis
12. Fitting The Rear Suspension And Differential

 

 1. Introduction

MK Sportscars has produced thousands of cars since the company launched the MK Indy in 2000. We are constantly striving to improve our cars and options list available to further enhance the affordability and desire of the car our main goal driver behind the RX-5 project. The enjoyment of the car should be in its actual construction, This Build manual has been produced to assist with this part of the project. The purpose of building a MK RX-5 140 is to realise a car that will suit the purpose for which it is intended. If this is a Road car or Track-based car, we have many thousands of satisfied owners in all categories both here and overseas who have had the enjoyment of building a MK. MK Sportscars will continue to offer the support to help deliver to you the means and advice of building a car, simply and quickly, with minimum complication and a maximum amount of fun. This manual is for the guidance of building the MK Indy and should also be used alongside the current IVA manual if you are looking at building a road registered car. If at any stage of the build you are unsure, please contact MK Sportscars for guidance or seek professional mechanical knowledge from a reputable and qualified company or individual. MK Sportscars hope you enjoy the experience. 

1.1 Manual Conventions

Throughout this manual there are important details which must be followed. These are highlighted with the following icons.

2. IVA

 

For amateur build IVA compliance, you will need to have photographic evidence throughout the whole build process. Please ensure you take sufficient photographs of each step in the build. These will need to be submitted with your IVA application form. Each section where you need to take photographs will be marked in the manual – but you can never have too many pictures of your build, it’s great to look back on in years to come. 

3. Safety First

 

ALWAYS WEAR:

• GOGGLES OR PROTECTIVE GLASSES AND SUITABLE FOOTWEAR IF YOU ARE USING WELDING OR GRINDING EQUIPMENT, THERE MAY BE OCCASIONS FOR THIS IF YOU ARE OUTSIDE OUT BUILD PARAMETERS,
• PROTECTIVE GLOVES WHEN HANDLING FIBREGLASS OR CARBON.
• DUST MASK AND EAR PROTECTION WHEN WORKING WITH FIBREGLASS OR CARBON.

IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THE SUPPORTS YOU USE UNDER THE CHASSIS DURING THE BUILD PROCESS ARE SUITABLE AND SAFE FOR USE. DO NOT CONNECT THE BATTERY +VE LEAD UNTIL THE WIRING LOOM HAS BEEN FULLY INSTALLED AND ALL EARTH CABLES HAVE BEEN CONNECTED. THE BATTERY MUST NOT BE CONNECTED UNTIL ALL TESTS HAVE BEEN COMPLETED. DO NOT FILL THE FUEL TANK UNTIL THE CAR IS COMPLETE. PLEASE TAKE CARE WITH BRAKE FLUID AND BRAKE FLUID SPILLAGE AND ALWAYS FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURES GUIDELINES. IT IS ADVISABLE TO HAVE A SUITABLE FIRE EXTINGUISHER AT HAND. ENJOY YOUR BUILD AND BE SAFE AND MOST IMPORTANTLY HAVE FUN

4.  Torquing of Bolts

Always refer to the Torque Settings in the manufacturer’s manual If you do not own a Torque Wrench, WE STRONGLY ADVISE YOU TO PURCHASE ONE FOR THE BUILDING AND MAINTAINING OF YOUR VEHICLE.

5. Assembly Project Plan

To help you with the assembly, we’ve added a project plan you can print out on your garage wall, and tick off the jobs as you do them. Some of these may already be done, and others will need completing in order to build your dream sports car.
This is available in the from this link 

6. Fitting the Pedal Box

As standard, the billet aluminium pedal box comes complete as a kit with two master cylinders for the front and rear brake circuits and an internal master cylinder for the clutch.

1x Fully assembled 3 pedal box.
1x brake balance bar
1x 0.700 master cylinder (Front circuit)
1x 0.75 master cylinder (Rear circuit)
1x 0.625 master cylinder with internal reservoir (Clutch)
6x M8 x 30 dome head bolts
6x M8 washers
6x M8 nylock nuts

6.1. Trim to Fit

The Pedal box is an off the peg standard fitment pedal box. The bulkhead of the vehicle is designed to house the pedal box with laser cut plates for the fittings on the firewall.

6.2. Assemble the brake bias bar

Fit the brake bias bar to the brake pedal in preparation for the master cylinders to fit.

6.3. Locking off the Brake Bias Bar For IVA

For IVA compliance, the brake bias bar needs drilling and locking off.
Wind the bias bar towards the front circuit of the braking system as a base setting.
If preparing the vehicle for IVA, add 2 nuts (7/16 UNF) either side of the brake pedal. Drill a small hole through the bias bar and add a split pin to prevent the nuts from being able to be removed and the bias bar from being adjusted.

6.4. Adjusting the Throttle Stop

When supplied, there may be a throttle stop already fitted to the peddle box on the inside which is not required. Because the foot well is so small, and access is restrictive we do not use this method for the peddle stop. Remove this throttle stop bolt now and set aside. We supply a longer M6 x 60mm bolt / washer and M6 nut for the throttle stop which is fitted after the peddle box is installed through the firewall and adjusted from inside the engine compartment.

Picture below is for reference only and shows where throttle stop is positioned in peddle box. This should be fitted after peddle box is bolted into chassis.

Apply a small amount of multi-purpose grease to brake pedal balance bar slot and to balance bar bearing ensuring the bearing moves freely, also apply a small amount of grease to the ends of the master cylinder push rod threads (this makes winding the threads into the pedals easier).

Slide the balance bar into the brake pedal ensuring that the balance bar bearing is located centrally and the longer end of the bar points away from the centre tunnel. Fit the large nylon washers and cylinder push rod connectors. Note: Do not tighten the connectors against the washers tightly, these are designed to move and need some slack to enable the bar to pivot. As a guide, wind connectors into the face of the washer and then unwind by half a turn each side, see pictures below showing the bar pivoting.

6.5 Fitting The Pedal Box

Now prepared, the pedal box can be bolted into the vehicle. This is fixed to the bulkhead panel by the master cylinder bolts. With the peddle box sitting inside the drivers footwell, feed each of the master cylinders through each hole making sure you use this configuration listed above.

Bolt the master cylinders to the bulkhead panel through the pedal box using the M8x30 dome headed bolts provided in the kit. Use washers and Nyloc nuts to secure the master cylinders and peddle box together.

Note : The bolts provided in the pedal box pack are too short and do not expose enough thread for IVA. Your nut and bolt kit includes longer 30mm bolts.

Once fitted, screw in the 3x brake and clutch master cylinder push rods into pedals until the pedals are vertical. Ensure that all lock nuts (x6) are tightened once desired pedal positions is achieved.

Adjust throttle peddle position to suit using the adjuster screw on the front of the peddle. Leave the throttle stop bolt loose for now as this will be adjusted once the engine and throttle body/cable are fitted.

6.6 Connecting Remote Brake Fluid Reservoir

If your kit has a remote brake fluid master cylinder, use an 3/8 UNF barb (available from MK Sports Cars) which allows the rubber pipe from the reservoir to be jubilee clipped to each master cylinder and then run up to the reservoir. It’s a good idea to fit the barb now into the two master cylinders for the front and rear brake circuit.

Note: It is possible to use our “Girling” style brake reservoirs screwed directly into the top of each front / rear master cylinder. You will need to drill and glue the DIY float level into the cap for IVA compliance.

6.7 Fitting Brake Bias Warning Sticker

Now that the bulkhead is exposed, the safety stickers for IVA compliance need to be stuck to the inside of the bulkhead between the brake and clutch pedal and within the engine compartment as shown:

7. Fitting The Brake Lines

Depending on which vehicle you are building, you may have in your kit either a complete braided hose kit, or copper and braided hoses.
All routing of the brake lines is the same regardless if you are using braided or the traditional copper based brake lines. Either are compatible for the IVA process if you are building a road legal vehicle.

7.1. Brake Switch 4 way T & Front Brake Lines

Towards the front of the chassis directly in the middle between the two wishbones is an M6 mounting boss for the 4 way brake T. This houses a feed from the master cylinder, the brake switch and the left and right braided lines. Secure the 4 way T in this location using a 6mm bolt (not supplied).

Once the 4 way T is installed, the feed from the front circuit can be run.

For ease of installation, you can use either p clips riveted to the chassis using closed head rivets, or it’s possible to use figure of 8 tie wraps ensuring the brake lines are not touching the chassis rails following the route show in the picture below.

{INSERT PICTURE}

Following out from the left and right sections of the 4 way T, braided hoses or copper pipe can be routed to mounting bracket on the chassis, again, using either p clips or figure 8 tie wraps ensuring secure fitment.

NOTE: IF YOU ARE USING THE BRAIDED HOSES KIT INSTEAD OF COPPER, THE HOSES ARE LONG ENOUGH TO REACH THE CALIPER DIRECTLY.

NOTE2 : ENSURE THE BRAKE CALIPER END IS A 1/8NPT THREAD, AND THE 4 WAY HOSE IS AN M10 X 1 THREAD.

If the brake fitting only winds in a few turns, you have the wrong end. While M10 x 1 and 1/8npt are very similar looking, they are different and should wind in several turns.

The male M10 x 1 to male 1/8npt for Wilwood calipers needs to then be fitted to the end of the braided brake line. It’s connected in the following way:

NOTE: THE POINTED END GOES INTO THE BRAIDED LINE, AND THE FLAT END IS WRAPPED IN PTFE TAPE AND WOUND INTO THE CALIPER. THE CALIPER END IS FITTED TO THE CALIPER FIRST.

7.2. Rear Brake 3 Way T

At the rear of the vehicle is another 6mm mounting boss for the 3 way brake T. Secure this here with an M6 bolt (not provided).

Note : If using a braided line front to back, wind the thread onto the bottom thread of 3 way T before securing this to the chassis as this will prevent you from having to unwind the front to rear brake line.

7.3. Front to Rear Brake lines

Route the front to rear brake lines using the track system provided on the chassis. Depending if you are RHD or LHD you can secure the brake lines to the appropriate track using small tie wraps to the lower holes in the track. The electrics will be mounted above the brake lines later in the build.

NOTE: AS YOU ROUTE THE BRAKE LINE AROUND THE BACK TRANSMISSION TUNNEL CHASSIS RAIL, ENSURE SPLIT DUCTING IS USED TO PROTECT THE BRAKE LINES FROM ANY SHARP EDGES.

7.4. Rear Brake Lines

Similar to the front, these will be either fully braided, or a mixture of copper and braided out to the caliper. Secure the brake hose to the left or right output of the 3 way T then secure this to the chassis using either P clips with closed head rivets, or figure 8 tie wraps.

NOTE: WE ADVISE FOR IVA COMPLIANCE BRAKE PIPE FIXINGS SHOULD BE NO MORE THAN 250MM BETWEEN EACH FIXING POINT

8. Fitting the Fuel Line

The single fuel line is secured front to back on the chassis via the track system. Use the same bottom track as the brake lines, but on the opposite side of the transmission tunnel. These are secured to the track system using small tie wraps.

Rubber fuel pipe pipe should be covered with protective split conduit for IVA.

{INSERT PICTURE}

Ensure there is sufficient pipe protruding into the engine bay to connect to the throttle bodies – Approx 600 mm

Route the fuel line around the rear of the vehicle using the following path using either closed head rivets or figure of 8 tie wraps.

NOTE: WE ADVISE FOR IVA COMPLIANCE FUEL PIPE FIXINGS SHOULD BE NO MORE THAN 300MM BETWEEN EACH FIXING POINT. WE RECOMMEND TO AIM FOR 250MM

{insert picture}


NOTE: ENSURE THE COPPER/RUBBER FUEL PIPE IS PROTECTED WITH SPLIT CONDUIT TO PREVENT CHAFING.

9. Fitting Floor Pan

We recommend our YouTube channel for this video on how to fit the floorplan.

The aluminium floor panels are supplied covered with a protective film do not remove until ready for final fitment.

Aluminium 4.8mm x 12.5 sealed head rivets should be used for securing the panels to the floor of the chassis. The floor panels are laser cut with rivet holes already in place.

The process of fitting the aluminium panel to the chassis is consistent for all panels.

Locate the panel on the chassis to determine which side fits which and which way around it goes, then set aside.

Apply a thin bead of silicone sealant to the chassis rails where the holes have been drilled.

Ensure that sealant covers all holes.

Remove the protective film and fit the panel on the chassis insert rivets through every hole. This panel should be fitted while the sealant is still wet.

Using your rivet gun secure the rivets and remove any excess sealant with a cloth and white spirit.

10. Fit Rear Bulkhead Panel

11. Fit ECU Mounting Panel to the Chassis

12. Fitting The Rear Suspension And Differential

Note: There is a technical video on our YouTube channel on how to fit the rear end of the Indy R and RR.

See here: https://youtu.be/WUXBZiKdoqI

12.1. Nut and Bolts Required

In order to fit the rear section of the car, the following nuts and bolts are required.

Size mm	Bolt	Washer	Nut	Rose Joint	Location
M12 x 44					12 x Poly Bush Halves
M12 x 44					6 x Crush Tubes
M12 x 60	12	24	12		Rear Suspension
M12 x 70	16	32	16		Wishbone Bolts Front & Rear
M12 x 195	2	4	2		Bottom Rear Uprights
M12 x 70	2	4	2		Top Rear Uprights
M12 x 50 Cap	2	4	2		Differential Bottom Mount
M12 x 50 Cap	2	4	2		Differential Top Mount
M12 x 1.25 Rose Joint	2	1		2	Bottom Wishbone Toe Fixing
M12 x 1.25 Rose Joint	2	1		2	Top Wishbone Camber

 

12.2 Fitting the Differential

The Ford 7” differential is fitted to the vehicle with 4x M12 x 50 Cap Head bolts. The head of the bolt goes on the inside and the nylock nut goes on the outside with a washer between the outside edge.

The image above shows the top mounting bolts.  Repeat the same bolt positions for the lower mounting bolts with the cap heads on the inside and the nylock nuts on the outside.

Shimm washer required on bottom right, 2mm, and top left 1mm washers

12.3. Fitting the Bottom Rear Wishbone

Note: There is a technical video on our youtube channel https://youtu.be/WUXBZiKdoqI

Fit the M12 x 1.25 half nuts to the M12 x 1.25 rose joints.

Starting with the lower wishbone, fit the toe adjuster to the rearward mounting point on the wishbone. Grease the tow adjuster and push the threaded boss toe adjuster into the wishbone, and using a large washer, wind the rose joint into the opposite end and lock off with the locking nut finger tight.

A basic setup is 40mm from the front of the wishbone to the center of the rose joint.

Once the toe adjuster is fitted, fit the 3x poly bushes to the wishbone.

Before securing to the vehicle, use silicone grease to lubricate the poly bush both inside the where the crush tube fits and outside where the poly bush fits into the wishbone.

NOTE : DO NOT USE COPPER SLIP OR ANY ABRASIVE GREASE.

Using a bench vice, you can press in either side of the poly bush to the wishbone, then press in the crush tube.

NOTE: TOE WILL BE ADJUSTED WHEN THE VEHICLE IS 4 WHEEL ALIGNED AT THE END OF THE BUILD.

Bolt the wishbone to the chassis using M12 x 70 bolts provided in the nut and bolt pack. Ensure the bolts are fed from the inside to the outside of the chassis or else you will not be able to remove them when the rear panel is installed.
14mm spacers are required when fixing the rose joint to the wishbone mounting bracket on the chassis.

The picture above shows the UK drivers side with the toe adjuster mounted to the rearward facing wishbone bracket.

12.4. Fitting the Rear Shock Absorber

Fit the shock absorber to the wishbone and chassis with M12 x 60 shanked bolts. The top bolt faces front to back while the bottom bolt faces back to front.

NOTE: SHOCK ABSORBER ADJUSTER FACES TOWARDS THE CENTER OF THE VEHICLE.

 

12.5. Fitting the Top Rear Wishbone

Firstly, grease the camber adjuster.

Press the camber adjuster boss into the wishbone from the back from the back of the wishbone and fit a rose joint to the other side.

Rear top upright showing the camber adjuster exploded view

Where the wishbone is mounted to the chassis, press in the two poly bushes using the process and silicone grease defined above.

NOTE: TOP REAR WISHBONES ARE NOT SIDED AND CAN BE USED EITHER SIDE.

This can then be mounted to the chassis using M12 x 70 shanked bolts provided in the kit.

Top Tip: Once fitted, tie wrap the wishbone to the chassis so it stays in a horizontal position to allow for drive shaft and rear upright fitment.

12.6. Fitting Rear Upright & Drive Shaft

Fit the rear upright making sure the correct upright is on the correct side. This is determined by the rear hub facing forwards to angle the brake caliper at 10 o/clock on a clock face.

The example below shows the UK drivers side.

Secure the upright at the bottom with an M12 x 195mm bolt.

Secure the upright in place at the top using an M12 x 70mm bolt.

Next fit the driveshaft by threading this through the upright into the differential. It’s a push fit.

Note: The length of the driveshafts are different – the longer of the two is for the UK drivers side, while the shorter of the two is the UK passenger side.

Position the bearing carrier onto the upright (over the drive shaft) making sure the caliper bracket is towards the rear of the vehicle. The bearing carrier comes with 60mm bearings already pre-pressed into the carrier.

Note: the holes in the bearing carrier are trapezium shaped so you might need to rotate this 180 degrees if the holes don’t line up correctly at the first attempt.

13. Fitting the drive flange

Prepare the output drive flange by pressing in 4x 47mm wheel studs (available in the kit.

{Insert image}

Fit the rear output drive flange, expansion washer and tighten the center hub nut. You won’t be able to torque this up until the vehicle is on its 4 wheels and the brakes can be applied.

Note: The drive nuts are both standard RH threads on either side of the vehicle and require a thick washer to enable enough depth in the keyway to knock down once the hub nut is correctly tightened

{Insert image of hub nut & expansion washer with keyway}

14. Fitting The Handbrake

Note: This is only applicable to Road going Cars and is not required for CUP 200 Race cars.

14.1 Fitting the Handbrake

Bolt the handbrake to the chassis rails using M8 x 25mm dome or cap headed bolts and 2 x M8 nylock nuts. Ensure to mount the handbrake central so the handbrake cable will be aligned.

You will need to drill through the chassis mounting points to ensure fitment.

14.2 Fitting the Handbrake Cable

Lay the handbrake cable on the floor with the adjuster on the drivers side.

 

Cut the Letter box fixing off the passenger side of the cable and remove the passenger side outer sheathing and the half moon connector. 

14.2.1 Fitting the Standard Handbrake Cable

Cut 955 mm of cable off the standard cable supplied with your kit to make this fit the dimensions of the car.

Fix the handbrake to half moon together using the handbrake link bar.

 

This comes flat as it's also used on the wilwood handbrake, so it needs to be twisted so that one hole is vertical (handbrake) and the other is horizontal (half moon).

 

 

 

This is done by heating the link bar in a vice and using an adjustable spanner, just twisting the metal through 90°.

 

Thread the cable through the chassis, round the half moon, back through the chassis and down to the passenger side caliper.

Refit the outer sheath to the passenger side handbrake cable.

Fit a screw on letter box fitting to the handbrake cable passenger side which was cut

 

14.2.2 Fitting the Wilwood Handbrake Cable

 

15. Fitting the Rear Brake Calipers

11.1 Sprint Rear Caliper Bracket

Secure the bottom right mounting hole (positioned at 4 o/clock) of the bearing carrier to the upright using an M10 x 30 dome headed hex bolts. This bolt isn’t required to secure the caliper bracket.

Position the brake caliper bracket onto the billet bearing carrier as shown in the image below. Then secure the caliper bracket to the bearing carrier using the remaining 3 M10 x 30 dome headed hex bolts.

When assembling the caliper to the caliper bracket, you will need to position an M8 washer either side of the bolt. This will spacer the caliper away from the bracket by 2mm putting the caliper in the centre of the disc.

Bolts required to mount the caliper to the caliper bracket are :

4x M10 x 30mm cap head

8 x M10 washers

Note : Don’t tighten down the calipers just yet because you will need to remove the caliper when bleeding the brakes. This is due to the bleed nipple being at the top.

11.2. Cup 200 Rear Caliper Bracket

The Cup 200 uses Wilwood 4 pot rear calipers, and the mounting brackets are slightly different from the standard calipers found on the Sprint model.

{images on the caliper mounting brackets and a brief description of the bolts required.}

 

13.   Fuel System

13.1.Fitting The Fuel Tank

Fuel tank is fitted using the fuel tank straps included in your kit. 

Fit some adhesive backed foam to the rear chassis rails for the tank to sit on.

 

The tank is then secured in place by the fuel tank fitting kit which is some m6 threaded rod and a top mounting bracket.  

{insert picture of the fitting kit}

13.2.Preparing The Fuel Pump

We use an in tank fuel pump, filter and an alignment bracket to position the pump in the correct location in the tank.

The tank is our standard fuel tank using the appropriate top plate for the pump and sender (if required).

14. Fitting the Prop Shaft

The propshaft needs to be fitted before any of the front end is assembled to enable sufficient space to get the one piece prop shaft into the transmission tunnel.

 

This is bolted to the size of the transmission tunnel using xx bolts

 

14.1.Prepare the clutch slave cylinder

If you have the cup spec prop shaft, the clutch slave cylinder will need to have the corner filed off if it hits the UJ of the prop.  This is approx. 1mm which need filing in the position where the prop shaft will touch it.  You can do this now, or when you drop the engine in the vehicle as you can get to it underneath.

 

15.   Fitting The Front Suspension

15.1.Fitting The Rockers

Remove any excess powder coat at the rear of the rocker. 

 

Liberally grease the rocker boss on both sides

 

Using the correct die, ease on the rear rocker bearing making sure the fitment is totally at the rear of the rocker boss.

 

Insert the forward most rocker bearing and press on with the correct size die.

 

Between the two inner bearings, there is now a 23mm spacer to prevent the inner most section of the rocker bearing from moving up and down the shaft.

 

{insert picture}

 

Press the outer sections of the front and rear bearing using a protected vice into the rocker and grease liberally.

Fit the rocker to the chassis making sure the longer edge of the rocker faces towards the middle of the vehicle.

Fix with a 30mm top hat washer supplied in the kit and tighten accordingly.  

IMPORTANT USE LOCKTITE ON THE BOLT

PACK 6 12NM 648 LOCTITE - **SHIM/TOP HAT WASHERS REQUIRED**

Repeat for the other rocker on the other side of the vehicle.

15.2.    Assemble the push rods

The push rods are 14” in length and at one end there is a RH Rose Joint, while the other end is LH Rose joint and lock nut.
Prepare the rose joints so that eye to eye they screwed into their minimum length.  This will be adjusted later in the manual.

{insert picture of the push rods}

15.3.    Fitting the Front Wishbones

NOTE: THERE IS A SPECIFIC ASSEMBLY PROCESS TO PREVENT ANY SCRATCHING OF THE POWDER COATED CHASSIS, SO THIS SECTION MUST BE FOLLOWED VERBATIM.

Prepare the upper and lower wishbones by pressing in the poly bushes and M14 camber adjuster in the top wishbones.
Using M12 x 70 shanked bolts (included in the kit) fit the lower wishbone to the chassis.  Fit both bots from the front to back of the vehicle. TORQUE TO 40FTLBS

{Insert picture of wishbone attached to the chassis}

Using the 8mm spacers, fit the RH threaded rose joint to the outer fitting of the rocker, the M12 x 60 shanked bolt is fitted from the back of the vehicle forwards, with the nut at the front.

Note : Don’t fit the pushrod to the wishbone yet.

Prepare the front shock absorbers; this is the pair of shocks with a bearing rather than the bonded bush.  The rebound adjuster is positioned at the bottom of the shock absorber facing outwards towards the outside of the vehicle.
Preload the spring by fitting the spring to the shock (usually 300lb) and rotating the platform adjuster until hand tight.
Bolt the top of the shock to the inside of the rocker using an M12 x 60 shanked bolt, fit the bolt back to front

Then fit the lower shock to the chassis.  

 

Once the lower shock is in place, you can then connect the pushrod to the lower front wishbone.

 

Fit the Maxi bottom ball joint to the wishbone using M10 x 30 Dome Heads bolts.

 

Fit the upright from the Sierra to the maxi ball joint using the provided nut.  Don’t tighten this down as the wingstay is bolted through this fixing point.  Ensure the correct upright is fitted to the correct side of the car. The steering arm should be to the front and the brake caliper to the rear.

 

Note : To help with this step, there is a video on our youtube channel on how to correctly assemble the aluminium uprights

Version 2 upright assembly instructions are here : https://youtu.be/oyjMe73hCJo
Version 3 upright assembly instructions are here : https://youtu.be/eXYqkspf0uk

 

{insert image Rear view of the front upright }

 

Fit the M14x1.5 rose joint & lock nut to the upper front wishbone.  These are not handed, so you can use either.  Press in the poly bushes in the normal way and fix this to the chassis.

 

 

Bolt the tie rod end to the upright – you’re front suspension should look like this:

 

Loosely fit the washers and nuts.  DO NOT tighten the nuts at this stage. 

Repeat the procedure for the passenger side of the vehicle.

 

 

15.4 Front Brake Caliper Hoses

The hoses from the T - Piece to the front calipers need to be routed just below the mounting point of the top wishbones (see below).

16.    Fitting The Steering Rack

Fit the locking nut to the tie rod end
Fit the tie rod end to the wishbone turning in 20 turns for starters.  

Note : You may need to turn an M18 x 1.5mm pitch tap down the threaded boss on the wishbone to remove any excess powder coat.

Bolt the top wishbone to the car with the forward facing bolt front to back and the rearward facing bolt of the wishbone back to front.

17.    Fitting the Coolant Tank & Oil Catch Tank

The coolant tank and oil catch tank are fitted at the front on the chassis using 4x M6 x 16 hex bolts included in the kit.
Plumbing of the coolant tank and oil catch tank is explained in the next chapter for each specific engine.

18.    Engine Plumbing

18.1.    Hayabusa – Oil Catch Tank

The breather on the UK drivers side is connected to the breather on the crank case using a length of 19mm silicone hose supplied with the kit.

18.2.    Hayabusa – Coolant System Plumbing Hot Side

Starting at the standard water pump on the bike, fit the 45° 25mm bend.

Then join the 90° bend to the 45° bend using the 25mm straight aluminium coupler.

Then connect the 90° 25mm hose into the aluminium T joiner.

Then cutting off xx cm of 25mm straight hose from the 1m length included in the kit, join this to the bottom of the radiator.

18.3.    Hayabusa – Coolant System Plumbing Cold Side

Using the remaining length of the 25mm hose, join this from the top right of the radiator into the return beneath the throttle bodies as you can see in this picture.

18.4.    Hayabusa – Coolant System Plumbing Coolant Tank

Using the 19mm Silicone hose, connect the T joiner to the coolant tank.  This will be used to fill the system.

Finally, connect the 8mm silicone hose left in the kit to the top of the radiator.  This is a self bleeding system if plumbed in this way.

19.    Fitting the Oil Cooler

20.    

21.    Fitting The Engine

21.1.    Hayabusa

21.2.    DuraPower – Jenvey Throttle Body TPS

The TPS needs to be correctly setup to allow for 100% throttle response.
Note: If this step is not checked, you run the risk of damaging the TPS or not getting 100% throttle.
This is done by removing the TPS, and aligning the keyway towards the top manifold bolt.

Then fit the backplate using the following holes

Then align the TPS like this:

21.3.    DuraPower - Gearbox

Firstly connect the gearbox to the engine using the following bolts found in the nut and bolt pack:

Position	Qty	Size
1	1	M10 x 50
2	1	M10 x 60
3	1	M10 x 55
4	1	M10 x 60
5	1	M10 x 65 + NYLOC
6	1	M10 x 65 + NYLOC
7
8	1	M10 x 60
9	1	M10 x 50
STARTER BOLT	2	M10 x 45
CLUTCH SLAVE BOLT	2	M8 x 25

22.    Engine Plumbing

22.1.    Hayabusa – Oil Catch Tank

The breather on the UK drivers side is connected to the breather on the crank case using a length of 19mm silicone hose supplied with the kit.

22.2.    Hayabusa – Coolant System Plumbing Hot Side

Starting at the standard water pump on the bike, fit the 45° 25mm bend.

Then join the 90° bend to the 45° bend using the 25mm straight aluminium coupler.

Then connect the 90° 25mm hose into the aluminium T joiner.

Then cutting off xx cm of 25mm straight hose from the 1m length included in the kit, join this to the bottom of the radiator.

22.3.    Hayabusa – Coolant System Plumbing Cold Side

Using the remaining length of the 25mm hose, join this from the top right of the radiator into the return beneath the throttle bodies as you can see in this picture.

22.4.    Hayabusa – Coolant System Plumbing Coolant Tank

Using the 19mm Silicone hose, connect the T joiner to the coolant tank.  This will be used to fill the system.

Finally, connect the 8mm silicone hose left in the kit to the top of the radiator.  This is a self bleeding system if plumbed in this way.

22.5.    DuraPower - Oil Catch Tank
22.6.    DuraPower – Coolant System Plumbing Hot Side
22.7.    DuraPower – Coolant System Plumbing Cold Side
22.8.    DuraPower – Coolant System Plumbing Coolant Tank

23.    Fitting the Oil Cooler

This is a picture of the radiator and oil cooler setup on the cup200 chassis. The radiator bolts onto its bracket and that is fixed to the plate on the front of your chassis, make sure to get the radiator bracket the right way round otherwise the brackets will not align. The oil cooler bracket then needs to be bent so that both parts of the bracket will fit snug to the oil cooler and provide a firm mount whilst also aligned to the radiator mounts.

Note: You may need to slight modify the oil cooler bracket by drilling your own holes in order for it to mount to the radiator.

23.1.    Hayabusa – Oil Cooler System Plumbing

24.    Engine Electrics

This section is designed to use the Modern Klassic chassis wiring loom.  Further information and a sub booklet about this can be found on the superbuilders facebook group

24.1.    Hayabusa - Fitting the Rectifier

In the passenger side firewall, measure down 100mm from the top of the chassis rail.  
Then measure and drill a 6mm hole 55mm and 110mm from the forward facing edge.

Once fitted, it will look like this:

24.2.    Hayabusa - Fitting the Start Solenoid

The starter solenoid is positioned on the ECU mounting panel and secured into position using a rivet.  This is straight from the bike so you will need to make a small u bracket from aluminium to mount it.  
Use a thin strip of 2mm aluminium 80mm long x 15mm thick, place a 90° bend 20mm from either end, making a 40mm wide U bracket.

Secure to the ECU mounting panel using a single rivet.

Once the mounting bracket is mounted, slide the starter solenoid onto the u bracket securing it in place.

The starter solenoid is then wired to the following locations:

24.3.    Hayabusa – Wiring the Life Racing ECU

Connecting the Life racing ECU to the engine is a very simple process.
There are 8 injectors, 4 coils, the gear position sensor and some other plugs for air temperature sensors etc.
The loom has been designed in such a way that you can only plug in the plugs to the standard engine sensors around where the plugs are in the loom.

Fuses and relays are also shown from a different angle on the left side of the picture above.

1.1.    Durapower – Analogue Speedo Calibration

The speedo needs to be calibrated for a 205/60 R 13 Toyo R888R Tyre.
The calculation required for correct calibration of this wheel & tyre is 1778

2.    Speedo Sensor Wiring

The speedo sensor is mounted is the rear of the vehicle with it’s grey multi core wire running up the centre tunnel attached to the track system.
There is a plug on the MK Loom called “Speedo drive” and it has 3 wires.  Black, Yellow and Orange.
Wire the plug in the following way in order to make the speedo work correctly.